Calculation of loops for knitting a neckline. How to distribute stitches for raglan knitting from top to bottom V-neck

I want to show you a diagram that makes it easy to calculate, how to close neck loops. Let's look at examples of how calculate the loops for the neck back, as well as for round and V-shaped front neckline.

Neckline at the back.

1. Determine the number of vertical decreases. Let's determine how many rows in height we need to close, i.e. Determine the depth of the cutout. It is convenient to do this in the following way: use a ruler to measure the depth of the cutout on a pattern, or on an item of a suitable style, to do this, draw a perpendicular from the shoulder line. Then count how many rows there will be in this dimension.

Example: neck depth is 3 cm, this makes 8 rows. Since we will close the loops in every second row, the number of rows in which the loops will be decreased = 4 (8: 2 = 4). Those. number of vertical decreases = 4.

2. We count the number of horizontal loops that need to be closed. To do this, measure the width of the neckline and determine the number of loops to decrease. It is also easier to use a ruler and measure how many loops there will be in the required number of centimeters.

In my example you need to close 16 cm. The number of loops included in this length = 38.

3. Divide the neck loops into 2 equal parts.

In my example this is 38:2 = 19 loops.

4 . Further calculations are carried out only for half of the loops.

These 19 loops must be closed 4 times as follows:

Divide the number of neck loops by the number of vertical decreases. If you get an uneven number, then the remainder must be added one loop at a time to that part of the loops that is closer to the middle of the back.

In our example We divide 19 loops by 4, we get four blocks of 5, 5, 5 and 4 loops.

5. We close the neck loops symmetrically, on both sides of the middle as follows: in every second row we close the resulting block of loops.

In our example in every second row we close 3 times with 5 loops, then 1 time with 4 loops.

Front neckline

Round neckline

1. We count the number of rows to decrease vertically. We do this in the same way as in the first point of the scheme for closing the back neck loops.

Example- neck height 9 cm, number of rows = 20. Since the loops are closed through a row, the number of decreases should be approximately equal to 10.

2. We count the number of loops to decrease horizontally. As a rule, it is equal to the number of loops closed on the back, but in some cases, these numbers may differ.

In our example this is 38 loops.

3. Divide the neck loops into two equal parts.

Our sample: 38:2=19

4. All further calculations will be only for this half of the loops.

We divide the loops into 4 parts; if the result is an uneven number, then the remainder must be added one loop at a time to the part of the loops that is closer to the middle of the back.

In our example: Divide 19 loops into 4 parts, we get four blocks of 5, 5, 5 and 4 loops.

5. We close the loops of the first part in 1 step.

6. We close the loops of the second part in two steps. If this number is not divided equally, then more stitches should be closer to the middle of the neckline.

In our example: in every second row we close 3 loops 1 time, then 2 loops 1 time.

7. Close the loops of the third part in 3 steps.

In our example: in every second row, bind off 2 loops 1 time, 2 more loops 1 time, 1 loop 1 time.

8. Close the loops of the fourth part, 1 loop in each 2nd row.

In our example: cast off 1 stitch in every second row 4 times.

This pattern is well suited for knitting a standard neckline. If you are knitting a deeper neckline, then by decreasing the loops according to the pattern, then knit the remaining loops without decreasing the remaining number of rows.

V neckline

1. We count the number of rows vertically. To do this, measure the height of the neckline and calculate the number of rows in this segment. This can be done in two ways.

10 rows - is - A cm

x rows - is in cm,

where A is the number of cm in which 10 rows fit, and B is the number of cm that makes up the height of the neck (neck depth).

Let's solve the proportion: x = 10 multiplied by B cm and divided by A cm.

Eg, 10 rows fit in 5 cm. The desired depth of the neckline is 25 cm. Let's calculate the number of rows to decrease: multiply 10 by 25 and divide by 5. We get 50 rows.

2. Determine the number of loops in half the width of the neckline. The easiest way to do this is to apply a ruler to the knitted fabric and count how many loops are contained in the required number of centimeters.

Let's say in our sample 8 cm contains 20 loops.

3. Divide the number of rows by the number of loops. You will get a number that shows how many rows you need to close the loops. If the number is not an integer, it must be rounded. If it turns out to be 2, this means that you need to decrease one loop in every second row, if it’s 4, then in every fourth and so on. If you get an odd number of loops, then you need to calculate the number of loops as in the example.

For our example 50: 20 = 2.5, round to 3. That is, we must cast off 1 loop every third row. But since it is more convenient to decrease loops after one row, we will decrease as follows: decrease 1 loop in the second row, decrease 1 loop in the fourth row, repeat further, i.e. alternate decreases in every second and every fourth row.

It is very convenient to close the neck loops simultaneously in two directions from two balls, this makes it easier to make equal decreases, and thereby close the neck halves symmetrically.

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HOW TO DISTRIBUTE LOOPS for knitting raglan from top to bottom

Before making calculations for raglan (as well as for everything else), you need to knit a control sample to determine the knitting density. Important! To avoid errors, take the time to knit a sample no smaller than 15cm x 15cm. After this, we determine how many loops there are per 1 cm. To do this, we count the number of loops in 10 cm. Suppose there are 30 loops per 10 cm. Then 1cm = 3p.

We measure neck circumference = 36 cm.

These loops must be distributed over the sleeves, front, back and raglan lines.

Let the raglan line consist of 1 p. Because There are four raglan lines, then 4 * 1p. = 4p. reserved for raglans. 108p.-4p.= 104p. left. We divide these loops into 8 parts: 104p.:8 = 13p. We take one piece for the sleeves (13p.) and three pieces for the front and back (13p.*3=39p.). For myself, I mark all the calculations on the diagram, it turns out more clearly and understandably.

Important! If a pattern is used in knitting, its repeat must be taken into account when distributing stitches. To maintain the beautiful addition of the pattern along the raglan lines, you can slightly change the calculation of the loops in the details, while maintaining their original number.

To ensure that a fold does not form on the front of the neckline in the finished product and the product does not pull back, it is necessary to make calculations for the neckline

CALCULATION OF RAGLAN FOR KNITTING THE NECK IN Elongated Rows
To prevent a fold from forming on the front of the neckline of the finished product and the product not being pulled back, it is necessary to knit the neckline in elongated rows, i.e. Include all loops in the work gradually, following the adjusted raglan calculations. This is what we will talk about now.

A little theory. The neckline consists of the following parts: back, front and upper sleeves. The back neckline is a straight line. The upper part of the sleeve is a curved line. It is divided into 3-4 parts. The front neckline is a curved line. In the middle of the front neck, leave a horizontal part = 4 cm (for an adult). Each part from the middle is divided into 3 equal parts. If there is a remainder, then it is added to the 1st part, counting from the middle of the front. Then the loops of each part are divided into groups: the 1st part - into threes, the 2nd part - into twos, the 3rd part - into ones.

Knitting the neckline begins from the back with two rear raglan lines and gradually the loops of the sleeves and front are included in the work. By the time all the loops are put into work, their number on the back and front should be the same. It should be remembered that while only the back and sleeves are knitted, the loops in the raglan lines of the back are added, and in the raglan lines of the front the number of loops remains the same. To avoid this difference, it is necessary to recalculate the loops: add the number of loops to the front loops = the number of parts into which the sleeve line is divided, and from the back loops subtract the number of loops = the number of parts into which the sleeve line is divided. From a practical point of view, the number of parts into which the sleeve line is divided is the number of steps during which all the loops of the sleeve will be included in the work.

Now let's move on to adjusting the calculations.

The initial calculations were as follows: 13 loops for the sleeves and 39 loops for the back and front. We divide the sleeve loops into 3 parts: 13:3 = 4 and there is 1 loop left, so the layout of the loops on the sleeve is 5, 4 and 4 loops. Then for the back you get 39 loops - 3 loops = 36 loops, for the front 39 loops + 3 loops = 42 loops. The middle of the front neckline is 4 cm * 3 loops = 12 loops. Divide the remaining number of loops 42p-12p = 30p by half, resulting in 15 loops for each half of the front neck. We divide 15 loops into 3 groups: 15:3 = 5p in each group. Further following the theoretical calculations and slightly adjusting the breakdown into groups, we get the following combination of loops: 3p 3p 2p 2p 2p 1p 1p 1p. All changes will be reflected in the raglan diagram.

HOW TO KNIT A NECK
All calculations and adjustments have been made, now you can proceed directly to knitting. It’s convenient to start knitting with short circular knitting needles; if you don’t have any, you can easily replace them with stocking needles (they are also called knitting needles for knitting socks, there are 5 pieces in a set). Later, when the number of loops during knitting increases so much that there is not enough space for them on stocking needles, you need to switch to circular knitting needles with a long fishing line. Ideally, it’s good to use knitting needles with an adjustable line, but I haven’t come across them yet. We will also need marking rings to mark the raglan stitches and the beginning of knitting. If you don't have them, you can do this: make several rings from contrasting yarn and use them for marks.

So. We cast on 108 loops on stocking needles. In order to more easily understand the principle of raglan knitting, we will knit with stockinette stitch. Let me remind you that we will knit in a circle, so we close the knitting in a circle and knit one row with knit stitches. Why do this, you ask? This technique will better fix the spokes and they will not dangle and twist so much. Personally, my attitude towards knitting with stocking needles is spoiled by this initial moment. And after 3-4 knitted rows, the fabric firmly fixes the knitting needles and knitting becomes a song. You just have to be patient a little, and then everything will go as planned. Therefore, if you are just learning to knit, I advise you to knit this zero row, let’s call it that. Next we knit, following the principles of partial knitting in long rows.

1st row. We put a ring on the knitting needle, this marks the beginning of knitting. We knit: 5 knits. left sleeve, yarn over, place a ring (thus marking the raglan line), knit 1. raglan, yarn over, 36 knits. backs, yarn over, place a ring, knit 1. raglan, yarn over, knit 5. right sleeve. We unfold the knitting.

2nd row. Knit: 5 p.p. right sleeve, knit yarn over, purl 1. raglan, knitted yarn over. p.p., 36 p.p. backs, yarn over. purl, 1 purl. raglan, knitted yarn over. p.p., 5 p.p. left sleeve. We unfold the knitting.

3rd row. We knit: 6 knits. left sleeve, yarn over, 1 knit. raglan, yarn over, 38 knits. back, yarn over, 1 knit. raglan, yarn over, knit 6. right sleeve + we include 4 more faces in the work. right sleeve. We unfold the knitting.

4th row. Knit: 10 p.p. right sleeve, knit yarn over, purl 1. raglan, knitted yarn over. p.p., 38 p.p. backs, yarn over. purl, 1 purl. raglan, knitted yarn over. p.p., 6 p.p. left sleeve + we include 4 more purl stitches in the work. left sleeve. We unfold the knitting.

5th row. We knit: 11 knits. left sleeve, yarn over, 1 knit. raglan, yarn over, 40 knits. back, yarn over, 1 knit. raglan, yarn over, 11 knits. right sleeve + we include 4 more faces in the work. right sleeve. We unfold the knitting.

6th row. Knit: 15 p.p. right sleeve, knit yarn over, purl 1. raglan, knitted yarn over. p.p., 40 p.p. backs, yarn over. purl, 1 purl. raglan, knitted yarn over. p.p., 11 p.p. left sleeve + we include 4 more purl stitches in the work. left sleeve.

At this stage, all sleeve loops are included in the work. Next, we include in the work the loops of the front raglan lines and the loops of the front neckline according to the same principle. When all the loops are included in the knitting, we close the knitting in a circle and continue to knit in a circle, adding loops along the raglan lines in every second row to the desired size of the fabric.

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First of all, you should always remember that women's buttonholes should be on the right, and men's buttonholes should be on the left. Even if you are knitting according to instructions that tell you what the distance between stitches should be, it is better to double check before knitting stitches. This is especially important if you changed the length of the product, so you will have to change the distance between the loops.

The top and bottom loops are usually located at a distance of 1.25 - 2.5 cm from the beginning of the neckline and from the bottom edge of the product. If you are knitting the neckline binding after the stitch placket, consider the width of the binding. You may need to place the top stitch on the binding and then place the remaining stitches evenly between the top and bottom stitches. Most instructions include this information.

As a general rule, the buttons should be spaced evenly apart on a neat line down the front of the garment. But you can show your imagination and do something more original, for example, use a single button at the neck or sew groups of 2 - 3 loops in front.

In order to evenly distribute the loops, determine the location of the top and bottom loops. Mark these locations with a marker, safety pin, or piece of thread. You now have two options for determining the distance between the remaining loops:

Option #1: MATHEMATICAL

Place the part on the table, measure the distance between the markers at the top and bottom of the part.
Divide the distance by the number of stitches remaining plus one. That is, if you need four more loops, divide the distance by 5.
Using a ruler, place markers at the intervals you determined in step 2.

Option #2: NOT MATHEMATICAL

This method works if you have an odd number of stitches.

Loop and pass button hole

This is the most popular buttonhole. It can be knitted on single crochet and half double crochet stitches, but for single crochet stitches or higher stitches, the stitch may be too loose. Changing the hole size for different button sizes is very easy: just skip extra stitches and work extra chain stitches. Start with a basic row of single crochets.

Place markers where you want to knit the button hole.
Knit single crochets to the marker, knit 1 (or several) chain stitches, skip 1 loop (or several loops - skip the same number of stitches as you knitted chain loops), knit single crochets to the next marker.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have knitted all the button holes, then finish knitting the row.

In the next row in each arch, knit as many single crochets as you missed in the previous row

Button hole air chain

A simple chain loop very easy to tie You can make the loop so long that it fits any size button. It is knitted in the last row of the strip, but on some types of fabric the loops stretch out and become very thin. To make a loop hole, follow step 1 of the loop-and-skip hole, then work up to the marker, work the minimum number of chain stitches to allow the button to pass through, stretching the hole slightly. Then knit a stitch into the same stitch or into the next stitch and continue to knit the placket to the next marker.

Knitted chain loop much stronger and looks more finished than a simple chain loop. Here's how it fits:

Work a chain stitch on the last row of the placket. First you must reach the marker, then knit a chain of chain stitches into which the loop will go. Remove the hook from the chain and insert it into the bar, moving it back a few loops. At the same time, insert the hook into the last chain stitch. The loop will be centered over the marker.
Single crochet this chain stitch and then work along the placket to the next marker. Practice doing this on a sample, see if the loop fits your button, and only then knit button holes onto things.

Advice! When you knit a sample, immediately try to knit different types of loops, matching them with pre-prepared buttons.

How to distribute stitches when knitting raglan from top to bottom

We measure neck circumference = 36 cm.
Now you can count the number of loops for the initial row: 3p. * 36 cm = 108 loops.
These loops must be distributed over the sleeves, front, back and raglan lines.

To ensure that the finished product does not have a fold at the front of the neck and the product does not pull back, it is necessary to make calculations for the neck. This will be the subject of my next article, “Raglan calculations for knitting a neckline in extended rows” in the “Knitting techniques and techniques” section.

Raglan on top in a circle: how to knit a neckline

This article is the logical conclusion of the articles “How to distribute loops for knitting raglan from top to bottom” and “Raglan calculations for knitting a neckline in extended rows.”

Raglan calculations for knitting the neckline in elongated rows. All calculations and adjustments have been made, now you can proceed directly to knitting. It’s convenient to start knitting with short circular knitting needles; if you don’t have any, you can easily replace them with stocking needles (they are also called knitting needles for knitting socks, there are 5 pieces in a set). Later, when the number of loops during knitting increases so much that there is not enough space for them on stocking needles, you need to switch to circular knitting needles with a long fishing line. Ideally, it’s good to use knitting needles with an adjustable line, but I haven’t come across them yet. We will also need marking rings to mark the raglan stitches and the beginning of knitting. If you don't have them, you can do this: make several rings from contrasting yarn and use them for marks.

Raglan calculations for knitting necklines in extended rows

I continue the conversation about knitting raglan on top. For a start, see the article “How to distribute stitches for raglan knitting from top to bottom.”

To prevent a fold from forming on the front of the neckline of the finished product and the product not being pulled back, it is necessary to knit the neckline in elongated rows, i.e. Include all loops in the work gradually, following the adjusted raglan calculations. This is what we will talk about now.

Now let's move on to adjusting the calculations.

The initial calculations were as follows: 13 loops for the sleeves and 39 loops for the back and front. raglan calculations for knitting the neckline in elongated rows We divide the sleeve loops into 3 parts: 13:3 = 4 and there is 1 loop left, so the layout of the loops on the sleeve is 5, 4 and 4 loops. Then for the back you get 39 loops - 3 loops = 36 loops, for the front 39 loops + 3 loops = 42 loops. The middle of the front neckline is 4 cm * 3 loops = 12 loops. Divide the remaining number of loops 42p-12p = 30p by half, resulting in 15 loops for each half of the front neck. We divide 15 loops into 3 groups: 15:3 = 5p in each group. Further following the theoretical calculations and slightly adjusting the breakdown into groups, we get the following combination of loops: 3p 3p 2p 2p 2p 1p 1p 1p. All changes will be reflected in the raglan diagram.

Knitting on five needles is one of the most popular types of circular or tubular knitting. Most often it is used to create small products, such as mittens, gloves, mittens, socks, knee socks, products for pets and dolls, elements for knitted toys and others. In fact, for knitting compact items, 5 knitting needles are much more convenient than paired knitting needles with a flexible connection (on a tube or fishing line).

Knitting on five needles, like any other, begins with a set of loops. The number of loops required for the product should be calculated in advance. For five spokes it is usually a multiple of four. In order to cast on loops, take two knitting needles, put them together and cast on the required number of loops. Then we take out one of the knitting needles, and distribute the loops equally across four knitting needles. The fifth knitting needle remains free, we will use it as a working one.

It is best to lay out the knitting needles with cast-on loops in a square, making sure that the edge is at the bottom of each knitting needle and the loops are “looking” up. In this case, the knitting needles should not wrap around the edge threads anywhere, otherwise the row of the set of loops will turn out to be twisted. For a better understanding of further actions, let’s conditionally number the knitting needles, assigning the first number to the one on which the beginning of the cast-on is located, respectively, the knitting needle with the last cast-on loops and working thread will be the fourth.

Now we take knitting needle No. 1 in our left hand, and hold the working thread from the fourth knitting needle on the index finger of our left hand, leaving it behind the knitting needle. We take the fifth (working) knitting needle in our right hand and knit the first loop from the beginning of casting on, completing the circle. This loop should be made as tight as possible so that the distance between the last loop on needle No. 4 and the first loop on needle No. 1 is minimal. By pulling the working thread you can make the loop tighter, otherwise the beginning of knitting will not look neat.

We continue knitting until the first knitting needle runs out of loops. Now the freed knitting needle becomes working. We transfer it to the right hand and knit all the loops from the second knitting needle. We continue knitting in the same way, each time using the freed knitting needle as a working one.

Circular knitting also has its own little tricks. So, there are ways to more tightly secure the beginning of knitting. The first of them is that at the very beginning of knitting, simultaneously with the working thread, the tip remaining from the set of loops is used, i.e., the first 3-4 loops are knitted in two threads. The second method is to knit the first loops not with the working needle, but with the fourth needle, this will allow you to pull the thread that closes the circle tighter. So you need to knit 2-3 circles, then distribute the loops evenly across the knitting needles.

Another nuance that needs to be remembered is that when tubular knitting, all facial loops are knitted using the upper segments, unless otherwise indicated in the pattern description.