The article contains useful tips that will be useful for machine knitting beginners. About fears before starting knitting on a machine and the emotional state, about preparing a knitting machine for work and other important “little things” of training. Having overcome which, you knit on the machine with joy.
Greetings! We regularly receive questions about how to get started. knit by machine Silver Reed. I decided to continue the series of articles about the features of knitting on a machine. Start in the articles "" and "".
Emotional challenges of learning machine knitting
First: Is it difficult to learn how to knit by machine?
This is the most common question we get asked. If I were younger, I could say: “Yes, this is so damn difficult!” If I had known that it was SO difficult, I would never have asked my husband to buy a knitting machine!”
But, being a man of mature age, I will answer more restrainedly: “Of course, learning to work on any new machine device is not easy. It takes patience, time, effort. But if you have a strong DESIRE, you can learn.”
Second: fear of starting to learn knitting on a machine
When you learn to knit by machine, emotional and psychological aspects hinder you more than ignorance as such. It is no coincidence that in the first sentence I write not “how to learn to knit”, but “how to start”.
Starting to knit on a knitting machine is scary for any of us, women and men. Don’t believe those who boastfully say something like: “Come on, bullshit, I wasn’t afraid of anything. I took it and learned.” These people are either disingenuous or have forgotten about the fears they experienced at the beginning of their journey. Or, they knit “anyhow.” Or they even gave up everything a long time ago, never having learned how to knit properly on a machine. And with their bravado they hide their reluctance to allow others to overcome their fear and learn how to knit beautifully by machine.
At the time we bought our Silver Reed class 5 car, I had a lot of professional experience in various fields. What skills have I never had to acquire before? I even successfully master Internet work (blogging, webmastering) on my own, although at our age it is much more difficult than in my youth.
But for about a week I couldn’t bring myself to open the boxes in which the knitting machine was packed. There was some kind of timidity that was completely incomprehensible to me. Why, it was shock, fear, turning into panic. Emotionally, it’s very similar to learning to drive a car in a driving course. As a result, my husband first had to completely master the knitting machine himself. And then teach me. To this day, in all difficult situations that arise when machine knitting, I ask my husband for advice.
So when you feel intimidated by the knitting machine and can't bring yourself to approach it, remember that you're not alone. Many of us touched the car for the first time with our hands shaking with excitement. This is fine. Perhaps there is no way without this.
Third: family matters
Did you know that machine knitting courses take about a year? And we boldly undertake to do this ourselves. Many women have to literally snatch minutes between work, household chores, caring for children and husbands. Find time to prepare the machine and yarn, get small children out of the room, keep them occupied with something, etc. Moreover, choose a moment when no one is sleeping, so as not to be disturbed by the noise of the carriage. How many difficulties are overcome without even noticing.
And if there is no understanding or support from friends and relatives, it is even more difficult. This is an important psychological point that makes learning difficult. When a person takes a course, those around him know about it and treat him with a certain amount of respect. They are not indignant about the time spent on training. They don’t reproach you for being “ugly” or other offensive things.
In addition, there is always the opportunity to consult a specialist personally and see that those who study nearby have similar problems. After the course, you can show your certificate as proof that you are now a specialist.
And when you learn to knit on a machine at home, you spend YOUR free time on it. Relatives and acquaintances do not have the perception that what you are learning now is very difficult and serious. On the contrary, it can be perceived as self-indulgence and foolishness.
Therefore, if it so happens that you are mastering a knitting machine alone, without the support of your loved ones, try to clearly realize that you are a great, smart and strong person! Because you don’t give up and learn something serious and useful instead of wasting time on chatter or “empty” gatherings.
Technical aspects of machine knitting
Fourth: the machine must be assembled correctly
A knitting machine consists of several parts that must be assembled. For example, like a computer - for it to work, you need to install a “desktop”, connect a processor, mouse, keyboard, etc. to it with cords. If you forget something or do it incorrectly, the computer will not work.
The same algorithm applies to the Silver Reed knitting machine. You need to collect it carefully, carefully, slowly. One might say, even jewelry-like. In the future, pay attention to whether the front font is evenly raised. If you don't lift it all the way, the hinges may fall off.
Fifth: new knitting machine like an unbroken horse
I want to tell you about one simple point that you don’t know about as a beginner. While the car is new, it is completely undeveloped. It knits poorly, as if “creaking”, the needles seem to cling to each other.
At first we were very amazed at various incomprehensible situations. Just now the machine was knitting normally, but now the thread flies off at the edges (or even in the middle), the carriage will stop for no reason, even if it cracks. It seemed that the car initially behaved like an unbroken horse))
To some extent, this is true. Video tutorials that can be found on the Internet are shown on machines developed. Therefore, the carriage glides on them softly and smoothly. The needles don't cling to each other, the loops don't jump off, etc. Looking at such ideal video lessons, we were very sad, how incompetent we were, and how great everything was for others.
In fact, the reasons lie in technical issues. One of which is that the car is new. Over time, everything gets better.
Sixth: “measure seven times...”
It’s not only beginners who have days when somehow everything doesn’t work out when knitting. The machine struggles, the hinges “dance” in all directions. You have to carefully check many settings in the car. I will list a few, checking which usually helps us fix problems.
a) see if they accidentally pressed when they lowered - raised the fontura, the clearance lever (with a blue dot). It should be at the top all the way, not leaving a millimeter of free space;
b) check whether the half-step lever is switched (for example, we knit a “2×2 elastic band”, and it is set in position H5 instead of R5);
c) raise the PI correctly;
d) remove or add weights;
e) carefully check each loop in the row;
f) whether the thread coming from the bobbin or skein is sagging (according to the Instructions, it should be well tensioned).
Seventh: knit across the entire width of the needle bed
Another, no less important, follows from the previous point. In the first days we knitted small “pieces” of 30-50 needles. Usually, several dozen center needles were in use, while the outer ones were left without work. As a result, the carriage began to move perfectly in the center of the needle bar. But it skidded slightly along the edge. Or, the loops at the edges got tangled and “flew off”.
If you have the same picture, the reason may be that the outer needles were almost not involved in the work. But, as the work progresses, the carriages and needle beds will begin to knit “like clockwork.” By the way, regarding oil - the next point.
Eighth: lubricate the car
The machine comes with a special oil in a small, convenient bottle with a narrow neck. We have been repeatedly asked “how to properly lubricate a knitting machine”? Place a few drops directly on the car and wait until it somehow saturates on its own?
Some may find the question funny and stupid. In fact, this is a necessary and important point in setting up a knitting machine. We do this: drop one drop onto a cotton pad and lubricate the needle beds with it. Shown in a short video tutorial.
Another pressing question: how often to lubricate your car? Of course, this is not the case when “you can’t spoil the porridge with butter.” We don't lubricate too often. For example, it happens that more orders come in for crocheting/knitting and Silver Reed is without work for several weeks. Then, before starting knitting, be sure to lubricate the machine.
Or, on the contrary, we knit almost without stopping only by machine. Of course, a lot of dust and debris from the different yarns that are used for various products collect in the needle beds and carriages. Then we clean and lubricate it more often so that the carriage knits easily.
Ninth: the knitting machine must be clean
The next everyday and elementary question about machine knitting is how to clean a car. We regularly clean the room in which we knit and the Silver reed machine itself with a vacuum cleaner. Nowadays there are a variety of models of vacuum cleaners, with attachments for crevices, etc. The easiest way is to remove the brush and use a tube to thoroughly clean the needle beds.
I don’t know about other knitting machines, but Silver is very “sensitive”. When knitting, dust particles and lint can accumulate unnoticed by us, but are sensitive to the carriage and needle beds. Because of this, the machine may struggle and refuse to knit.
Therefore, before we start knitting, we always carefully inspect the needle beds and carriage. If necessary, we perform cleaning/lubrication.
Tenth: cover the car when not knitting
This does not affect the operation of the knitting machine in any way (provided it is cleaned and lubricated in a timely manner). Rather, it concerns the aesthetic side of the issue.
Our knitting machine is always assembled. On days when we are not knitting by machine, I cover it with a fabric sheet. If this is not done, you will have to thoroughly wipe and vacuum it every day. Otherwise, in a week there will be so much dust collected on it that it’s simply unpleasant to look at. It's easier to cover with a cloth.
Eleventh: We write everything down when knitting on Silver
As I already said, my husband teaches me how to operate a Silver Reed machine. At first, I wrote down each step in a notebook. Step by step, something like this:
1. Thread the thread
2. Raise the background
3. Snap the carriage
4. Set... needles
5. Insert the thread into the thread guide, etc.
Later, when this site was created, it helped me prepare -MK, descriptions of our models, how we knitted them. Perhaps over time you will also open your own website in which you will show your products knitted on the machine. Moreover, now it is much easier to do this. There are a lot of different design services that allow you to create websites from ready-made templates for free.
Therefore, if you have not done this before, try to write down the entire algorithm of work, down to the smallest detail. Especially if you have to knit with long breaks (on weekends and holidays).
Your head is always busy with something, and it’s difficult to switch gears on the fly. At first, our knitting periodically did not work due to some simple mistakes: we forgot to switch some button, or something else. Sometimes they were so nervous, they couldn’t understand what was going on. Well, everything was just fine, what happened?!!! They checked it, cleaned it here, changed it here - it doesn’t fit. Oh, that's what it's all about...
And when you start checking yourself against your list of actions, you involuntarily calm down and find mistakes. This is the first thing. And secondly, having written down your mistake, next time it is easier to find the entry and remember from it what it was.
Twelfth: nothing but the devil is joking))
Sometimes situations happen when the car is simply capricious. It's hard to believe, but there's no other way to say it. He resists and does not knit: he throws off the threads and confuses them. Sometimes we knit two identical hats in a row or... They tied one, everything is fine. Next we knit the EXACT same second one, it doesn’t fit!
At first they tried to pacify the “horse machine”. And then they reconciled themselves)) So, it’s time to take a break and drink tea. And sure enough, you start knitting after an hour or two, knitting as if nothing had happened. Miracles and that's it...
Thirteenth: We didn’t have time to tie and remove the product from the machine
When we started mastering our Silver, we looked everywhere for different information. And along the way, we read a lot of recommendations, useful and not very useful. One of them was that you should not leave unknitted fabric hanging on the machine for a long time (for example, overnight). Frightened by this advice, we tried to finish knitting and remove it from the fontura “before the first rooster”))
Later they realized that nothing happened to the canvas if it remained on the background overnight. We just make sure to remove the weights so that it doesn’t get delayed. All the same, after removal from the fontura, many knitted items should be allowed to rest for 10-12 hours. During this time, the canvas takes on a real (not stretched) shape.
Fourteenth: preparation for knitting
We always pay special attention to the beginning of knitting. We knit the first rows literally one at a time. We went through one row and carefully checked EVERY loop to see if even the thinnest part of the loop was caught somewhere. After all, the carriage knits quickly. And even if not the entire loop catches on the adjacent needle, but one of its inconspicuous lint catches on another loop, in the next row the carriage will hang the next one from this loop. Instead of making a normal loop.
As a result, on the 4th-6th row everything in this place falls off. And when the knitting “flies” from the needle bed, the true reason is not visible. It seems that everything was fine.
Therefore, we MUST slowly examine ALL needles in use, checking how the loops lie on them. Having noticed something wrong, we immediately eliminate the future problem.
The fifteenth: knit quickly, but without haste
When we first started, we thought that it was enough to thread the thread and start moving the carriage. And you can, while looking at the TV or chatting on the phone, enjoy the wonderful sight of how the fabric is quickly knitted. In fact, everything is far from true.
Machine knitting requires constant attention and does not like to be rushed. For example, we have developed a technique for ourselves that we constantly use, taught by bitter experience.
Every 10 rows we rehang the edge weights along the edges of the fabric, tightening the comb. I wrote about this technique in detail in the article, the link to which I gave at the beginning of this article.
And the photo shows a fragment of knitting a women's demi-season beret. Step-by-step photo-MK in
Sixteenth: Why are weights needed when machine knitting?
For the first time we saw our knitting machine in person in the store. Sales consultants showed it unpacked. What especially surprised me was the loads. Ordinary weights, like in Soviet grocery stores.
The seller immediately warned that you need to be careful with them: do not throw them, do not drop them. Since this may break off the hook by which they are hung.
Since before that I had only knitted by hand, at first I couldn’t understand - WHY hang them? They're so heavy. Yes, several pieces per canvas. I watched from the side how dashingly my husband hung them up and kept waiting for the canvas to deteriorate from their weight)) Or the car would break down))
When my husband explained the technical side of machine knitting, I understood. Indeed, when you knit with a machine, the carriage QUICKLY passes along the needle bed and knits all the loops on the needle bed. At the same time, the needles move, bounce, and a new loop is threaded onto each needle.
And, if you do not pull the canvas down with the help of weights, the loops will begin to jump, each will not be put on correctly in its place, and will get tangled. Therefore, you have to calculate how many weights to hang for different canvases.
Seventeenth: How many loads should I hang?
Another point that can influence the fact that knitting “goes” at first, but then doesn’t. The number of weights hung in relation to the number of needles in use.
Over time, you develop the skill to feel how the fabric hangs and how much weight is required for normal knitting. But such an instinct comes only with experience. And it will be difficult for us to say in absentia how much weight you should currently use for your knitting. It depends on the quality, density of the yarn, and the number of needles in the work.
At first, you can follow the “Instructions” exactly. On average, we hang 5 large weights on a product that we knit with 160-180 needles. And we use edging at the edges.
Eighteenth: what threads to start knitting with
A difficult question, the answer to which we searched long and hard. I have already answered this question in detail in the first articles in this series (links at the beginning of the article). As it turns out, for a new knitting machine it is better to choose softer yarn. For example, half-woolen.
Unknowingly, we immediately bought a whole bobbin of linen yarn. It is soft and, naturally, like any bobbin thread, thin. We tried to rewind it on several cones and knit something in at least two folds. But, I managed to knit it after about a year or more, when I became more proficient in machine knitting. description of a hat made from these threads.
Cotton threads for hand knitting worked well right away. These bags were knitted from cotton threads in the first months of training.
But it was easiest to knit with Brilliant Vita wool blend yarn. In theory, it is not intended for machine knitting. But I don’t really like knitting with it by hand - it turns out either a little thin, or a little heavy if you use two threads. And on the car it turns out just gorgeous.
Check out this large case tutorial on how to knit this fashionable baggy beanie hat. We prefer to knit almost all such hats, scarves, and headbands from hand knitting threads.
Summarize.
Learning to machine knit is difficult, time-consuming, but worthwhile. After all, knitted products are always in demand and remain in fashion. Having learned to knit well on a machine, over time you can make money from it.
I wish you a great mood and success in any endeavor!
Best regards, Saule Vagapova
Seal
Knitting is not an easy process, requiring creativity and imagination. Using a knitting machine you can create things that no one else will have. How to knit on a knitting machine, how to choose yarn for future masterpieces? Find out in this article.
Photo and video of knitting machine
If you have children, then a knitting machine is an indispensable assistant for a mother. They grow quickly, they need new clothes every year, but it is not always possible to update their wardrobe. Parents can be sure that things are not only beautiful and unique, but also safe for health.
Benefits of using a knitting machine
Knitting on modern machines is fun and easy; models equipped with computer control are especially popular. Photos of knitting machines of this type can be viewed on the Internet and you can choose the ideal option. The work will be a pleasure.
How do they work? You just need to enter the finished drawing from the disk and set the program to the machine. She will do all the work herself, you just need to monitor the process. Reviews of knitting machines, which needlewomen are happy to share on thematic forums, will help you choose reliable equipment.
How to knit on a knitting machine
How to master this miracle technique? Let's consider the main stages of work:
1. Preparation of yarn. In order for the item to turn out to be of high quality, it is important to approach the choice of threads responsibly. If you are working on a machine for the first time, you should choose yarn of medium thickness. If it is unwound, then it is necessary to wind it into a ball so that the thread runs smoothly.
2. You need to thread the inner end of the yarn into the machine carriage.
3. You should start knitting by selecting the first row. It is better to use the needle wrapping method. After mastering this method, you will be able to handle others easily; Next, you need to insert the thread into the tensioner so that its end is fixed near the tripod.
4. Using a comb, pull up the required number of needles and begin the process of weaving them with yarn. You need to wrap it counterclockwise, supporting it with your fingers; when the last needle remains, you will need to install the thread in the thread guide.
5. Using a comb, return the needle to its starting position. It is important to control the fiber: it should not droop or become tight.
we knit EVERYTHING with the help of CHV
Crew neck formation
To begin decreasing stitches to form a round neckline, we make the following calculation:
a) determine how many loops are in a segment equal to 7.2 cm according to the construction of the drawing: 3 loops X X 7.2 and 22 loops;
b) calculate how many rows will be knitted at a distance of 8.2 cm: 4.2 rows X 8.2 and 34 rows.
Let's consider decreasing the neck loops when knitting a solid front (for a sweater, jumper, dress). We calculate the reduction of loops for one half of the neck.
In our example, we need to decrease 22 loops in each half of the neck. We decrease the loops in approximately the following sequence: the first time we decrease 6-8 loops to the right and left from the middle of the neck, the second time - 3-4 loops (can be repeated two or three times), the third time - 2-3 loops (can be repeated three or four times). We decrease the remaining loops one by one.
We distribute the decrease, regardless of the number of loops, to the middle of the depth of the neckline, i.e. at a distance of the first 3-4 cm.
In our example, we decrease 22 loops at a distance of 16-17 rows in eight steps (6, 4, 3, 3, 2, 2, 1 and 1 loop). We knit the remaining 17-18 rows evenly.
We begin to decrease the loops along the front side of the work (Fig. 271).
271 (Fig. 271) Scheme for decreasing neck loops with a round neckline
Having knitted according to the pattern to the neckline, we divide the entire number of loops into two equal parts and then knit in the following sequence:
1st row (front side) - from the beginning to the middle of the row we knit with the thread of the main ball. In the center of the neckline, we attach a thread from an additional ball, close 6 loops with a pigtail (as when fastening a sample) and knit the front row to the end;
2nd row (wrong side) - knit according to the pattern. On the neck side, we knit the last two loops together purlwise (to get a smooth line of decreasing loops), leave the thread of the additional ball, take the thread of the main ball, close 6 loops with a pigtail (purl loops) and knit the row to the end;
3rd row (front side) - after knitting to the neckline, we knit the last 2 loops together with the front one, leave the thread of the main ball, take the additional thread, close 3 loops with a braid and tie the row to the end;
4th row (wrong side) - knit to the neckline, knit the last 2 loops together, leave the thread of the additional ball, take the main thread, close 3 loops with a braid and knit the row to the end;
5th and 7th rows - from the neck side we knit 2 loops together with the main thread, and then close 2 loops with a pigtail thread of an additional ball;
6th and 8th rows - from the neck side we knit the last 2 loops together with the thread of the additional ball, then close the 2 loops with a braid with the thread of the main ball.
So we gradually decrease 22 loops on each side of the neck. Next we knit evenly.
Reducing the neck loops in the fronts, which are knitted simultaneously with the bar, is done in the same way as indicated in the calculation for a solid front, but in the first row we close all the loops of the bar with a braid in one step. We reduce the remaining number of loops, counting them from the center of the bar according to the pattern.
Reducing neck loops can be done by partial knitting. In this case, open loops are kept along the neckline for further knitting of a stand or a solid knitted collar.
Consider decreasing the stitches in each half of the neckline using partial knitting:
1st row (front side) - at the beginning we knit the loops of the right half of the front, on the left knitting needle we leave the loops of the left half plus 6 loops from the right half of the neck unknitted. Turn the work to the wrong side and knit according to the pattern;
3rd row - at the beginning we knit the loops of the right half of the front, on the left knitting needle we leave the loops of the left half of the front plus 10 loops (6 loops + 4 loops) from the right half of the neck unknitted. Turn the work to the wrong side and knit according to the pattern.
So gradually on the left knitting needle we leave all the loops unknitted, intended to form the cutout of the right half of the neckline, i.e. 6, 4, 3, 3, 2, 2 and 1 loop. Next, from the neck side we knit exactly 17-18 rows. Having finished knitting the right half of the front (when all the loops along the shoulder bevel are decreased), we proceed to knitting the left half. To do this, using the right knitting needle, we pull out new loops from the edge loops of the flat part of the neckline. In the flat part of the neckline, 18 rows were knitted, which formed 9 braid loops along the side edge (18:2). Consequently, we pull out 9 additional loops along the side edge and get 31 loops in the right half of the neck (22 loops 4-9 loops). We knit all the loops to the end of the row and, from the wrong side of the work, begin to partially knit the left half of the neckline. We knit the left half in the same way as the right. Having finished knitting the left half and having received 31 loops on the knitting needle, we knit all the loops of the neck (31 loops + 31 loops = 62 loops). We finish knitting with an auxiliary thread or transfer the loops to a spare knitting needle.
When designing the neck of products without a fastener, you should increase the neckline by 2-3 cm around the entire circumference. For this neck shape, it is recommended to distribute the decrease in stitches along the entire length of the oval. In this case, the stitches are decreased at a distance of 34 rows, i.e. in 17 techniques, which means that the reduction of loops will have to be done not in each row, but after a certain number of rows.
In our example, we need to decrease 22 loops in the following sequence: 7, 5 and 3 loops every other row and seven times 1 loop in every 4th row.
Reducing stitches along the sleeve head line
Having knitted to the armhole line, we calculate the decrease in loops along the line of the sleeve head. To correctly calculate the decrease in the loops of the sleeve head, we divide the height of the sleeve head into three equal parts (Fig. 272).
272 (Fig. 272) Scheme for decreasing loops along the edging line of the sleeve head
According to the construction of the drawing, the segment is equal to 16 cm: 16 cm: 3 = 5.3 cm.
We get points K and K1. Draw a horizontal line through point K1. The points of intersection with the okat line are designated by the letters K2 and K3 (see drawing). Section KChK3 - control line. We determine how many rows will be knitted in each part: 4.2 rows X 5.3 ~ 22 rows.
The size of the segment GKhG2 (sleeve width along the armhole line) is 36 cm, or 108 loops (3 loops X 36 cm = 108 loops). Therefore, along the cuff line of the sleeve, you need to decrease 108 loops. We calculate the decrease in loops of the sleeve head for each half separately.
Let's consider decreasing the loops from the back, i.e. on the left. On the finished drawing we measure the size of the segment K2K: K2K1 = 8.1 cm, or 3 loops X 8.1 “24 loops.
The segment G,G is equal to 54 loops (108 loops: 2). We determine how many loops need to be reduced from the armhole line to the beginning of the third part, i.e. to the control line K2K3. To do this, from the number of loops in segment D, subtract the number of loops in segment KK1: 54 loops - 24 loops = 30 loops.
Thus, it is necessary to distribute the decrease of 30 loops over a distance of 44 rows (the number of rows of the first and second parts).
From the armhole line, we first decrease the number of loops equal to the first 4-5 decreases made along the lower edge of the back armhole (segment G1G2). In our example, in the left half of the sleeve head we will decrease: 5, 3, three times 2 and 10 times 1 loop in every 2nd row, i.e. every other row. and then three times 1 loop in every 4th row. We begin decreasing stitches at the beginning of the purl row.
Let's consider decreasing the loops along the line of the sleeve head from the front, i.e. on the right.
The G2G segment is equal to 1/2 of the G1G2 segment or 54 loops (108 loops: 2).
The KKH segment when measured is 6.9 cm: 3 loops X 6.9 “21 loops.
Therefore, on the right we decrease 33 loops (54 loops - 21 loops). From the armhole line, we first decrease the number of loops equal to the first 3-4 decreases made along the lower edge of the front armhole. In our example, in the right half of the sleeve head we will decrease: 6, 4, 3, 2 loops and 17 times 1 loop in every 2nd row. We begin decreasing stitches at the beginning of the front row.
We calculate the decrease in loops in the third part. Along the K2K3 line we have 45 loops (24 loops + 21 loops), which must be decreased at a distance of 22 rows.
It is recommended to leave a flat part (8-12 loops) at the top of the okat, which means that you only need to subtract 37 loops (45 loops - 8 loops).
On the left we decrease the loops in the following sequence: seven times 1 and three times 4 loops in every second row, and on the right eight times 1, two times 3 and once 4 loops in each 2nd row, close the remaining 8 loops in one braid technique.
Additional dart in the armhole
Starting from size 48 (in cases where the product is knitted in stocking stitch), we recommend making an additional dart in the armhole. The length of the dart for all sizes is within 3-5 cm, and its depth does not exceed 1.5-2.5 cm. We perform the dart by partial knitting in elongated rows, which we knit from the middle of the fabric to the outer edge of the armhole.
To perform a dart, we make the following calculation:
a) determine how many loops there will be along the length of the dart: 3 loops X 5 = 15 loops « 16 (rounded to an even number);
b) calculate the number of rows according to the depth of the dart. The tuck depth is 2 cm, making 8 rows (4.2 rows X 2), or 4 phases;
c) determine how many loops we will lengthen each row by when knitting an additional dart: 16 loops: 4 = 4 loops.
Let's consider knitting an additional dart in the right front.
The width of the shelf including the fastener bar is 29 cm, or 87 loops (3 loops X 29 = 87 loops).
We begin knitting an additional dart after we complete the first 4 decreases (phases) along the lower edge of the armhole, i.e. when on the left knitting needle at the end of the front row there are 15 loops unknitted (6, 4, 3 and 2 loops), and 8 rows are knitted from the armhole line (Fig. 270). Next we knit like this:
9th row (front side) - knit 45 loops, do not knit the remaining 42 on the left knitting needle. Turn the work to the wrong side. Thus, on the left knitting needle all the loops of the lower edge of the armhole and the loops intended for additional dart remain unknitted (26 loops + 16 loops = 42 loops);
10th row (wrong side) - knit 45 loops according to the pattern;
11th row - knit 49 loops (45 loops + 4 loops), do not knit the remaining 38 loops on the left knitting needle. Turn the work to the wrong side
270 (Fig. 270) Pattern for decreasing loops in the armhole and knitting an additional dart
Completed the 1st phase of partial knitting with extended rows);
12th row - knit 49 loops according to the pattern;
13th row - knit 53 loops (49 loops + 4 loops), do not knit the remaining 34 loops on the left knitting needle. We turn the work to the wrong side (we completed the 2nd phase);
14th row - knit 53 loops according to the pattern;
15th row - knit 57 loops (53 loops + 4 loops), do not knit the remaining 30 loops on the left knitting needle. We turn the work to the wrong side (we completed the 3rd phase);
16th row - knit 57 loops according to the pattern;
17th row - knit 72 loops:
Thus, 15 loops remain unknitted on the left knitting needle, as before the start of knitting the additional dart.
From this row we continue the interrupted decrease in stitches along the lower edge of the armhole. At the end of the front row, we leave 1 loop undone seven more times (see “Decreasing loops along the lower edge of the front armhole”). When 22 loops are left unknitted on the left knitting needle from the armhole side, we knit the front row, and at the beginning of the next row we close 22 loops with a braid.
Then we knit strictly according to the pattern and, according to the calculation, we decrease four more times, 1 loop in every 4th row from the armhole side, i.e., a total of 26 loops are decreased along the lower edge of the front armhole.
When knitting an additional dart, you can reduce the distance from the armhole line to the beginning of the shoulder bevel by 1 cm.
Thus, when knitting a front for large sizes, you can use any type of dart. You can combine a side dart and an additional side dart
and horizontal, but the entire length of the finished product should be taken into account.
We calculate and perform the reduction of loops along the shoulder bevel in the same way as when knitting the back.
Decrease stitches along the bottom edge of the front armhole
We decrease the loops along the lower edge of the armhole on the section G6G7. We determine the size of the segments in the same way as when calculating the backrest. If you need to decrease a small number of stitches along the lower edge of the armhole (16-18 stitches), do this in the same way as when knitting the back. But when knitting large items along the lower edge of the armhole, it is necessary to reduce a larger number of loops - from 25 to 45 loops, depending on the knitting density and the size of the segment. In our example, the length of the segment is 8.5 cm: 3 loops X 8.5 ~ 26 loops.
The size of the segment G7PA is 8.5 cm, or: 4.2 rows X 8.5 « 36 rows.
Therefore, you need to decrease 26 loops at a distance of 36 rows, or in 18 steps (phases).
You can decrease the loops by using partial knitting in short rows or covering them with a braid, as when finishing knitting, i.e., the same way as in the back.
We decrease the loops in approximately the following sequence: the first time we decrease 6-7 loops, the second time - 4-5 loops, the third time - 3-4 loops (can be repeated two or three times), the fourth time - 2-3 loops (can be repeated two or three times). We decrease the remaining loops, casting off 1 loop each time, i.e., knitting 2 loops together.
In our example, we decrease 6, 4, 3, 2 loops, seven times 1 loop in every 2nd row and four times 1 loop in every 4th row.
When covering the loops of the last row, you can pull the last row or knit 2-3 loops together to get a slight fit of the fabric along the lower edge of the armhole.
To the line of the shoulder bevel at the distance of the segment we add from 4 to 6 loops (if required by the pattern). We calculate the addition of loops in the same way as when knitting the back (at the distance of the segment). In some cases (very narrow shoulders), we decrease loops from the armhole line to the beginning of the shoulder bevel.
Formation of a horizontal (radial) dart
When knitting items with a sewn-in sleeve of small sizes, we lengthen the front, as in a jacket with a raglan sleeve. If we knit a product of a large size, starting from the 50th, it is recommended to use a horizontal dart.
We obtain such a dart by partial knitting in long and shortened rows (it is recommended to use the second method of partial knitting). The dart line is located at a distance of 4-6 cm from the armhole line. To start making the tuck, you should make the following calculation:
a) determine the depth of the tuck. In our example, the depth of the dart is 3 cm (see “Calculating the balance of the product”);
b) determine the length of the dart. Set the dart length in the same way as when knitting a jacket with sleeves
raglan (see “Horizontal dart”). In our example, the length of the dart is 15 cm. We calculate the number of loops along the length of the dart: 3 loops X 15 = 45 loops;
c) we establish how many rows need to be knitted at a distance of 3 cm (dart depth): 4.2 rows x 3 ~ « 12 rows (rounded to an even number of rows).
The tuck is done in two types of partial knitting. We distribute 6 rows for each type of knitting (12 rows: 2 or 3 phases.
We determine how many loops we will lengthen or shorten the row in one phase: 45 loops: 3 = 15 loops.
Let's consider the technology of knitting a horizontal dart in the right shelf (Fig. 269). The first half of the dart is made in elongated rows from the middle of the fabric towards the side line, and the second - in short rows from the side line to the middle of the fabric. The width of the shelf together with the strap is 29 cm, of which we knit 25 cm (3 loops X 25 cm = 75 loops) with a shelf pattern and 4 cm (3 loops X 4 cm = 12 loops) with a strip pattern. For the entire width of the shelf, cast on 87 loops (3 loops X 29 cm = 87 loops).
Having knitted to the dart line, we begin to knit in extended rows:
1st row (front side) - at the beginning of the row we knit 57 loops according to the pattern (of which 15 loops are intended for darts), we do not knit the remaining 30 loops on the left knitting needle until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
269 (Fig. 269) Knitting pattern for horizontal dart
2nd row (wrong side) - knit 57 loops according to the pattern;
3rd row - at the beginning of the row we knit 72 loops according to the pattern (of which 30 loops are intended for darts), we do not knit the remaining 15 loops on the left knitting needle until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
4th row - knit 72 loops according to the pattern;
5th and 6th rows - knit all the loops of the row to the end.
We knit the second half of the dart in short rows;
7th row - at the beginning of the row we knit 72 loops according to the pattern, we do not knit the remaining 15 loops on the left knitting needle until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
8th row - knit 72 loops according to the pattern;
9th row - at the beginning of the row we knit 57 loops, the remaining 30 loops on the left knitting needle are not knitted until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
10th row - knit 57 loops according to the pattern;
11th row - at the beginning of the row we knit 42 loops, the remaining 45 loops on the left knitting needle are not knitted until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
12th row - knit 42 loops according to the pattern;
13th row - knit all 87 loops of the row to the end.
Formation of the shoulder bevel line
To determine in what sequence it is necessary to decrease the loops along the shoulder bevel PHA2, we make the following calculation:
a) according to the finished drawing, we establish the size of the segment Pha: P^a = 14 cm, or 3 loops X 14 = 42 loops;
b) determine how many rows will be knitted in segment A^a equal to 5.8 cm (height of the shoulder bevel): 4.2 rows 5.8 ~ 24 rows;
c) we decrease the loops along the shoulder bevel, covering them with a pigtail, as at the end of knitting, or using partial knitting in shortened rows. In any case, we decrease 42 loops in 12 steps, or 12 phases (24 rows: 2);
d) determine how many loops need to be decreased in one step: 42 loops: 12 = 3.5 loops. When dividing, we get a fractional number, so we will decrease, alternating 3 and 4 loops.
Using the technique of fastening the loops with a pigtail, at the beginning of each row we close off 2 loops, in the next decrease - 3, and at the end of each row we knit the last 2 loops together. As a result of this decrease, we get a smooth line of the shoulder bevel.
When decreasing loops by partial knitting at the end of each row on the left knitting needle, leave 3 loops unknitted once, 4 loops another time - until 42 loops remain unknitted on each side. Then we knit all the loops along the shoulder bevel and close them in a row with a pigtail.
We decrease the sprout stitches in the same way as when knitting a jacket with raglan sleeves.
Product balance calculation
Good fit of the product depends on determining the balance, i.e. the difference between the length of the back to the waist and the actual length of the front to the waist.
In our example, the length of the back to the waist is 39.5 cm. The length of the front, measured from the 7th cervical vertebra (Fig. 255), is 53.5 cm. [Next...] To more accurately determine the actual length of the front to the waist, subtract from this value the distance along the curve from the 7th cervical vertebra to the highest point of the neck, i.e. the value of the segment AA2 (we measure it according to the drawing with a centimeter placed on the edge): AA2 = 7.8 cm.
Therefore, the actual front length will be: 53.5 cm - 7.8 cm = 45.7 cm.
Now, to establish the balance value, subtract the back length from the actual length of the front: 45.7 cm - 39.5 cm = 6.2 cm.
Thus, the front should be 6.2 cm longer than the back.
We check the length of the front to the waist in the drawing. The proposed construction provides for an increase in the shelf for all sizes by 3.5-4 cm. This value includes 1 cm (allowance for the length of the back for the convexity of the shoulder blades) plus the height of the sprout (segment A1A2), equal to 2.5-3 cm. Therefore, the length the front in the finished drawing is equal to the length of the back to the waist (39.5 cm) plus the increase (1 cm + 2.5 cm = 3.5 cm): 39.5 cm + 3.5 cm = 43 cm.
In order to determine the amount by which the front will need to be lengthened when knitting, the value taken to increase the front when constructing the drawing should be subtracted from the balance value of the product. In our example: 6.2 cm - 3.5 cm » 3 cm.
Therefore, when knitting, you need to lengthen the front by 3 cm. The resulting value can serve as the depth of the dart.
You can also set the depth of the dart in another way: from the actual length of the front to the waist, subtract the length of the front obtained when constructing the drawing: 45.7 cm - 43 cm = “3 cm.
The second method of decreasing armhole loops
Decreasing stitches along the lower edge of the armhole can be done by partial knitting in short rows. To do this, at the end of each row we leave the loops unknitted in the following sequence: 5, 3, 2 and 1 loop, i.e. the number of loops that, according to the calculation, we decrease in each row.
To finish partial knitting, first on the front side of the work, and then on the wrong side, we knit all the loops to the end of the row, and at the beginning of the next row we close off 14 loops with a braid. The remaining loops that still need to be decreased (in our example there are 4 loops, i.e. 18 loops - 14 loops), we decrease 1 loop in every 4th row. In total we decrease 18 loops on each side of the back.
Next we knit, adding loops along the G3P line (if the shape of the pattern requires it). To determine how many loops the back should be expanded to the beginning of the shoulder bevel, you should mark on the drawing of the back the point of intersection of the line of the beginning of the shoulder bevel with the vertical line A3G, the letter P.
268 (Fig. 268) Scheme for decreasing loops along the lower edge of the back armhole
We measure the size of the segment Pkhp according to the finished drawing. In our example P1, n = 1.7 cm, or 3 loops X 1.7 « 5 loops. Also, using the finished drawing, we measure the size of the segment G3p: G3i = 13.6 cm, or 4.2 rows X 13.6 “ ~ 57 rows.
We determine how many rows we will add loops: 57 rows: 5 = 11 rows.
Therefore, in every 11th row we will add 1 loop on both sides.
The first method of decreasing armhole loops
Let us consider in detail the decrease of 18 loops at a distance of 25 rows (Fig. 268). We start decreasing the loops from the front side of the work:
1st row (front side) - at the beginning of the row with facial loops we close 5 loops with a braid, as at the end of knitting, and knit the row to the end;
2nd row (wrong side) - at the beginning of the row we purl 5 loops with a braid, and at the end of the row we knit the last two loops together with a purl;
Let us remember that if, when decreasing loops at the end of each row, the last 2 loops are knitted together, then at the beginning of the next row one less loop is decreased than indicated in the calculation.
So, for example, at the beginning of the 3rd row we close with a braid not 3, but only 2 loops. As a result of this decrease, we get a smooth line of decreasing loops.
3rd and 5th rows (front side) - at the beginning we close 2 loops with a braid, and at the end of the row we knit the last 2 loops together with the front one;
4th and 6th rows (wrong side) - at the beginning we close 2 loops with a braid, and at the end of the row we knit 2 loops together with the wrong side;
7th and 9th rows - at the beginning and at the end of the row we knit 2 stitches together;
8th row - at the beginning and at the end of the row we knit 2 loops together purlwise;
10th row - at the beginning we knit the first 2 loops together purlwise.
Thus, in 10 rows on each side, 15 loops were decreased, therefore, 3 more loops need to be decreased:
a) on the front side of the work in the 13th, 17th and 21st rows we decrease 1 loop each, knitting the first 2 loops together at the beginning of the row;
b) on the wrong side of the work in the 14th, 18th and 22nd rows we also decrease 1 loop each, knitting the first 2 loops together at the beginning of the row.
Decrease stitches along the bottom edge of the armhole
According to the construction of the drawing, the size of the segment G,G2 (the lower edge of the armhole) is equal to 6 cm. We determine how many loops need to be subtracted in the segment GKG2: 3 loops X 6 = 18 loops.
We decrease the loops at a distance of segment GCH3 equal to 6 cm. We determine how many will be
knitted rows: 4.2 rows x 6 = ~ 25 rows.
Therefore, at approximately a distance of 25 rows on each side, we decrease 18 loops.
We decrease loops along the lower edge of the armhole (when knitting any size) in approximately the following sequence:
a) for the first time we decrease (close with a braid, as at the end of knitting) from 4 to 6 loops;
b) the second time - 3 loops each (this decrease can be repeated 2-3 times);
c) for the third and fourth times - 2 loops each (can be repeated 3-4 times). We decrease the remaining loops, casting off 1 loop in every second row (or after 3 rows in the 4th).
In our example, we decrease 18 loops in the following sequence: 5, 3, 3, 2 and 1 loop in every second row, i.e. every other row. We decrease the remaining 4 loops by 1 loop every 3 rows in the 4th.
The abundance of identical, faceless clothes on the market cannot but depress sophisticated fashionistas and fashionistas. And not everyone can afford to go to Milan or Paris for a weekend of “shopping.” Homemade crafts come to the rescue. Moreover, technical innovations are so improved that using them is easy and pleasant. The outfits knitted on a knitting machine are individual, created just for you. The art of machine needlework requires certain knowledge and skills. You can always find a brief description in the instructions or video tutorials from the Internet. Perhaps there are special courses in your locality that teach this.
Flat knitting machines are used in everyday life. Their class determines the number of needles and the distance between them and varies from 2 to 10. The thickness of the thread also depends on the class of the machine: the thinner it is, the higher the class. Imported computer knitting machines are more functional, but they are also much more expensive compared to domestic ones. At the initial stage, you need to select and prepare the yarn. There are special threads of different thicknesses on sale, which are wound into large bobbins. For the first time, buy threads of medium thickness. If the yarn is not wound in the form of a cone or cylinder, then it must be rewinded using a special device, which is purchased separately. Otherwise, the thread will go into the carriage in jerks, which will affect the quality of the product. Thread the inner end of the thread into the carriage.
Learning to knit on a knitting machine is tricky, but doable. Master the basic skills first, pay close attention to the diagram and make accurate calculations. Then start knitting complex designer items.
Very often, the passion for knitting on a machine occurs spontaneously. You wanted to knit a beautiful knitted dress, and you decided to buy a knitting machine to learn how to knit on a machine and knit this beautiful dress. Or they simply decided to master their mother’s knitting machine, which had been lying in the closet for a long time. The first task is to figure out how to knit the first row on the machine.
The knitting machine instructions are usually lost. And if there is a book like “Knitting on a machine ourselves,” then it is very difficult for an unprepared person to understand the incomprehensible technical language. After reading a few pages, you have a strong desire to buy a ready-made dress, but don’t rush to conclusions.
Of course, you will have to work hard to learn at least the basics of knitting on a machine, but these efforts are compensated by the pleasure of creativity and the opportunity to have unique, original things knitted by machine.
Video of the formation of the initial row on knitting machines. The most common method is to manually wrap the needles with yarn.
It can also be noted that buying a knitting machine is not a cheap pleasure and prices for new knitting machines can reach 100 thousand rubles or more. However, the price for a used knitting machine is also quite high. For such knitting machines as Silver, Brother, 15-50 thousand rubles, this is a very reasonable price. And somewhat lower for Neva and Veritas cars. All this, including the fact that operating the machine requires great knowledge and skills, makes us take the purchase of a knitting machine quite seriously.
In this section of the site, we will try to help you master the first step - preparing yarn for machine knitting. In the future, you can complete knitting courses on a machine or deepen your knowledge on your own from books and the Internet and learn how to knit beautiful and unique knitted clothes.
1. Knitting on a machine begins with preparing the yarn
The first thing you need to do before you start learning how to knit on a machine is to prepare your yarn. If the yarn has knots or is not suitable for this type of machine, then it will seem to you that the knitting machine is broken, and your desire to knit on it will quickly disappear.
Having prepared the yarn, learn how to pick up the first row of fabric and first knit your first scarf from multi-colored horizontal stripes.
For machine knitting, special threads are produced on huge bobbins. They are quite thin and therefore they are folded (3-5) together. This thread is ideal for a knitting machine; the product turns out smooth and even. But you will start your first steps with regular yarn used for hand knitting, which is not very suitable, but is also suitable for machine knitting. The main thing is not to use very thick yarn.
For yarns that are too thick, there are other classes of knitting machines and knitting needles. These knitting machines have not 200, but 100 needles (5 classes of knitting machines in total).
When knitting by machine, you can use a wide range of yarns, including synthetic yarns. However, when using it for the first time by beginners, especially immediately after purchasing the machine, you should first use soft wool yarn of medium thickness.
2. The yarn must first be prepared and rewound
The yarn must first be prepared and rewound. This makes knitting easier and better quality. The machine knits evenly and softly, without jerks or skips, or as knitters say, drops. The pictures show the types of yarn winding.
A - conical type, B - cylindrical type. These skeins are ready and suitable for machine knitting.
C, D, or E - such skeins of yarn need to be rewound.
3. A special device is used to rewind the yarn
To rewind the yarn, a special device is used, without which no knitting machine can do. When rewinding, the yarn is placed in a skein so that the thread is removed from the skein evenly, without effort. Or at least with the same effort.
If you knit from balls on a machine, the tension will “jump” and constantly change. And two knitted sleeves from the same yarn, with the same number of rows and knitting density, will have different lengths and widths. You'll have to unravel and knit them again.
It is important to understand that the thread entering the carriage in jerks will affect the knitting density of the fabric. Therefore, be sure to purchase such a device or buy yarn already rewound into skeins designed specifically for a knitting machine.
A piece of paraffin softens the yarn, making it smooth and elastic. As a result, the machine makes less noise when knitting and the load on the needles and carriage is reduced.
Factory-wound skeins of yarn are sometimes wound too tightly. If possible, it is better to rewind even factory balls.
You need to start using the thread from the inner end of the skein.
5. Avoid using tangled or knotted yarn.
It is better to untangle or cut off the tangled yarn and make a new skein. Knots can cause the carriage to jam and even break the needle, not to mention dropping the loop in the fabric while knitting.
The inner end of the skein thread should be used as the starting end. Make sure that when the yarn comes out of the skein, the skein does not jump. If the yarn does not come off smoothly, but in jerks, then you can try using the other end of the thread (outside the skein).
Skeins, type E, must be rewinded using yarn holding devices or holding it in your hands, as shown in the figure.
Use only suitable yarn that is wound, elastic and not too thick. This will make your first steps easier when learning how to operate a knitting machine. Having learned to knit on a machine with regular yarn, you can move on to using more complex types of yarn, which sometimes require knitting a knitted fabric through a needle.
How a single-flow knitting machine works and works. Detailed instructions for the Neva-5 knitting machine.
It is impossible to learn how to knit on a machine without understanding how it works. You can easily eliminate many of the knitting defects that arise on a knitting machine if you understand the reason for their occurrence.
For beginners learning to knit, it is best to start learning on simple and inexpensive machines, such as Neva-5. When you can fully master the techniques of knitting on such a machine, you can think about learning how to knit on more complex and expensive models of knitting machines.
Sometimes they mistakenly believe that in order to knit a beautiful and complex dress you need the latest model of knitting machine. On any machine, even on the Severyanka, you can knit any patterns and ornaments if you learn how to knit them using manual transfer of loops.
Knitting by machine involves the use of special yarn. Yarn for hand knitting differs from yarn for machine knitting in the thickness of the thread and the way the thread is laid in a skein. To learn how to knit by machine, use thin and elastic yarn rewound on a special device for learning.
You can learn to knit on a machine, but how can you learn to repair a knitting machine? Repairing a knitting machine is a complex task and only an experienced craftsman can do it. But it’s good if you live in Moscow or another large city where there are knitting machine repair specialists. What to do if you can’t find such a master in your city?
A double-font knitting machine is not only a hobby, but a way to earn money. The use of two fonturas, or essentially two separate machines, expands the possibilities of knitting endlessly. The only limitation is your imagination. It will be much easier to learn how to knit on such a knitting machine if you have already learned how to knit on a single-font machine.
